The Man Who Ate Everything
Jeffrey Steingarten · 1997 · 9 ideas · 9 min
Nearly every food rule, taste preference, and culinary snobbery people treat as fixed truth turns out to be arbitrary, culturally invented, or disprovable through direct, obsessive personal testing.
Why this book
Steingarten argues that most of what people believe about food — which foods are objectively disgusting, which techniques are essential, which restrictions are healthy — rests on inherited assumption rather than actual investigation, and he sets out to test as many of these assumptions as possible through firsthand, often extreme experimentation. A former lawyer turned food critic, he approaches questions like whether homemade mayonnaise is truly better than store-bought, whether he can overcome his own food phobias through systematic exposure, and whether classic culinary techniques hold up under rigorous side-by-side comparison, treating each question as a genuine investigation rather than an occasion for received wisdom.
This matters, in his telling, because so much food culture runs on unexamined snobbery and performative preference rather than actual sensory evidence, and his methodical, often comically obsessive testing punctures a lot of that performance. The book is a personal essay collection built on one enthusiast's testing rather than peer-reviewed research, so its conclusions are best read as entertaining, well-informed personal findings rather than settled culinary science, though many of his practical kitchen tips have held up well among food professionals.
Who should read it
Home cooks, food nerds, and anyone amused by taking a mundane question — like what makes the best fried chicken — to absurd, exhaustive lengths should read this. It's an easy, funny entry point into food writing for people who don't usually read about food.
About the author
Jeffrey Steingarten is an American food writer and former lawyer who served for years as the food critic for Vogue magazine and became known for his obsessively thorough approach to culinary questions.